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Compiled by Emil T. Miller (Tony)
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The History of
Chili
c We are talking about Red Chili here. (Green chili which is a "Johnny-come-lately", is an entirely different dish). . . . Have you ever wondered as to the origins of "chili" (the Official dish of Texas), and why so many people claim to make the "world’s best"? I have, and have delved into the matter to some extent over the years. I share my findings with you here, gratis. First let me say that it appears to be universally accepted by easterners and far westerners that "chili" is a dish which came from Mexico. I myself thought this early in life. Indeed such is absolutely NOT the case. In fact one Mexican dictionary, not happy with the notion that chili may have Mexican roots, goes so far in debunking this notion that it states: "This dish is a detestable food with a false Mexican title, sold in the United States from Texas to New York." Another Mexican publication defines chili as "a dish made of shredded cattle to which powdered chili peppers have been added," and still another states flatly that "it is an incendiary dog food widely eaten in Texas". Mexican defamation notwithstanding, the fact is that "chili" is a distinctly delectable and satisfying dish which originated in the American Southwest. Texas to be precise. The further happy fact is that the lack of a clear definition and precise production procedure has made it possible for all of us to be chili "experts" both in fact and in egotistical allegation. As to its’ precise origins, it seems that based more on the preponderance of historical fact rather than legend (of which there are several), the first recognizable chili-type "stew" was created by Texas cowboys and adventurers during the 1840's. It is maintained by several sources that these hardy, inventive people pounded dried beef, fat, salt, and wild chili peppers into a pemmican-like paste, or chili-brick, to carry with them on their sorties into the wilds. Pieces were then broken off as needed, and boiled to make a hearty hot meal, used especially with the meat du jour, especially when it was scarce or none too desirable. However, it appears that this "chili Pemmican" was not widely accepted in Texas or elsewhere for more than two decades. Neither is there any evidence that Texas soldiers ate such chili during the Civil War, though they and most other Confederates routinely ate beans heavily flavored with dried, ground chili peppers. Research indicates that chili did not become a universally popular food in Texas or anywhere else until the late 1800's when finally at such time it became a standard menu item in Texas prisons. It seems that Texas prison cooks discovered that chili peppers and beans, when combined with certain spices and herbs, could work wonders with inferior cuts of meats and extend its’ volume considerably. In Texas, jailhouse chili was so popular a dish that former inmates from time to time, wrote back to prison systems requesting the recipe, claiming that they could not find a chili nearly as good on the outside! Just prior to this same time in the early 1890's a phenomena had arisen in San Antonio, known as "Chili Queens". These so nicknamed, gaudily dressed and mostly Spanish women started selling their chili brews from bubbling cauldrons in the downtown plazas, including the Alamo plaza, and down along the river which runs through town. These picturesque vendors spiced up the evenings when they set up their large crude tables covered with red and white oilcloths with bright checkerboard patterns. Each one also set up a large ornate lamp and dressed gaily to attract customers drawn by the wonderful chili smells. Each pot was delicious, each different, and each recipe jealously guarded. This happy situation continued all the way to 1943 when the town began applying the same sanitation standards to the Chili Queens as applied to the regular restaurants, at which time these open-air vendors quickly disappeared since it was impossible for them to conform. (Sound familiar? Let a good thing spring up and the "government" will either tax it or regulate it out of existence - or both). But, by this time chili was well on its’ way to becoming one of the most popular dishes in Texas, and indeed, the rest of the country as well. One of the reasons chili became so popular in the 1890's was the invention of the first chili powder seasoning mix. Two men living in different parts of Texas will forever live in the annals of chili-mania. In Ft. Worth, one DeWitt Clinton Pendery created a well accepted recipe to be used with his blend of powdered chili pepper, oregano, cumin seed, and garlic which he sold and called "Chilo-maline". This product is still made and sold by a company which bears his name. Folks in San Antonio however, give credit for this type of easy made chili to a man of German pioneer descent, one William Gebhard of New Braunfels, Texas. He sold his chili blend under the trademark of Eagle Brand Chili Powders, and the original formula is still used to make this wonderful spice blend - and also still sold by a company which bears his name as well. Unfortunately, during World War II, strict rationing removed chili con carne (chili with meat) from most restaurants and home menus, and Chili suffered a temporary decline. Then in 1947 the Chili Appreciation Society International (CASI) was founded (and at this present writing it has chapters all over the world). In the late l960's two events revived the popularity of chili in this country. The most significant was the publication of a book written by that well-known historian of the Southwest, Chili lover and cook, Frank X. Tolbert, entitled "A Bowl of Red". Shortly thereafter it became widely known that President Lyndon B. Johnson was also a Chili lover. These two happenings fostered a veritable Chili popularity explosion. Then in the fall of 1967, Mr. Tolbert and his friends contrived a tongue-in-cheek marketing plan to promote further sales of his book. They organized the worlds’, America’s and Texas’ first "Chili Cook-Off", a prankish event which was held in Terlingua, Texas, then still a ghost town from the silver mining era in that arid, sparsely settled, moon-scaped part of Texas. Here I will note that Yours Truly was in attendance at this singularly epic and extremely raucous event, casting my vote with discriminating taste. This Chili cook-off pitted the chief cook of CASI, Texan Wick Fowler, against Dave Chasen, the well-known Beverly Hills restauranteur; it being well-known that Texans and Californians looked on each other’s Chili formulas with considerable disdain. But Chasen became ill just before the event and the organizers were forced to find an alternate opponent. Fortunately, H. Allen Smith, a popular humorist from New York had just written an article for HOLIDAY MAGAZINE entitled "Nobody Knows More About Chili Than I Do", in which article he lambasted Texas-style Chili, incurring their considerable wrath. Pitting a Texas hero against an up eastern Yankee smart-mouth then transformed the contest into a widely publicized grudge match made in heaven! After some taunting back and forth between Smith and Tolbert, Smith accepted the challenge and the match was on. Even though the match ended in dispute and was settled with a tie due to bizarre circumstances (I personally favored Wick Fowler’s concoction by far, and he got my vote), it started a national infatuation with the "Bowl of Red" that continues unabated to this day, with thousands of Chili cook-offs held in every part of the country (and in many other countries as well) each year. What is "Chili" then? It is a gastronomical wonder-food which has risen to almost mythical status, being adopted as the official dish of Texas in 1977, and even now having a national group lobbying in Washington to make it the official dish of the United States. And this for the least defined of all dishes! Can just anyone make good chili? OF COURSE! Providing certain basic rules are followed. In the past I have held that there are only three kinds of chili; good, better, and best. However, as I get older and my system becomes more delicate I do not ignore those who hold that the three types are; good, bad, and dog food. Good chili is when all the basic ingredients are used, and in proportions which are so balanced as to agree with each other to the effect that the concoction ends in a culinary delight. For most people this is easily done. Bad chili is certainly the opposite, while just about any canned chili relegates it to dog food status. A possible exception to this is Wolf Brand Chili (made in Texas of course). A half-eaten bowl is the best evidence of both bad chili and dog food. So what are the basics? The heart and soul of chili con carne is of course the CHILI PEPPER. There are over 300 varieties of chili peppers, each having its own flavor and "heat value". Not to belabor this treatise, the favorites and most used are; Cascabel, Ancho, Chipotal, Mulato, Pasilla, New Mexico, and Chiltepin. Of these the most favored is the Ancho, a rather mild pepper, brownish/red, about 4 ½ inches long, with a deep, rich flavor. Next is the New Mexico chili pepper which is similar and matures to a deep red when left on the bush, is medium to hot, and has a distinctive "chili" flavor. This one is favored throughout the Southwest. A word to the wise; you want to stay away from the many varieties of the Habanero unless you have an asbestos lined digestive system (put the toilet paper in the ice box, ole son!). The backbone of any Chili is the MEAT. Some say that lamb, chicken, pork, etc., is permissible. Such is NOT chili dear hearts. Beef or Venison, or a combination thereof! Pork is the only exception (in Tennessee), and only when used with beef or venison. And don’t waste money on high-priced cuts of beef. Toughness in chili meat is a virtue, and is not an issue when properly diced and cooked. If there is a substitute meat to be considered, I have in the past argued in favor of goat meat but have been unable to prevail in but few situations other than amongst my South Texas Latino friends. Only when I myself use it in one of my concoctions without saying what the meat is until after it eaten with gusto and heartily complimented by second, and third bowlfuls does it get any credibility at all. (Even then the revelation is usually dismissed as a bad joke on my part). When it comes to spices and herbs, it is best to use only the required and accepted ones and not to stray too far with others if you must experiment. Without COMINO (Cumin)and Red CAYENNE PEPPER it will not be chili (and without these wondrously magnificent ingredients Mexican food would not exist either. And Tex-Mex? Fo'gettaboutit.!) GARLIC too, along with that wonderful weed ONIONS, are basic requirements as is OREGANO. Some hold that whole Clove, Coriander, and Allspice are necessary - I and most Texans do not, with the possible exception of Allspice. This most wonderful and versatile flavor-enhancer will in no way ruin good chili. As to the Oregano, the Greek is my preference, as the Mexican Oregano is quite strong and can dominate all the other ingredients if not used correctly. Other additives? Most are up-eastern abominations. A little FAT is necessary for the flavoring it brings to the pot also. Some skim it all off afterwards, and this is a mistake. My order of preference is sliced salt pork or bacon drippings, venison fat, or beef fat. If there is absolutely too much, some is easily skimmed off the top or picked out after refrigerating. TOMATOES in big chunks are required. BEANS or no Beans? Dealers’ choice, but there is little argument here. Beans are a natural compliment to chili and the very best "extender". I and most people much prefer them. Only Pinto beans along with as much as an equal amount of Red Kidney beans are universally acceptable (and for Cajuns, rice is tolerated, but only on the side and the chili poured over). Beer? Alcohol is a detriment to the flavorings of chili and if used (some like the subtle change in taste it gives), it must be cooked in a separate pot sufficient time to vaporize the alcohol. So much for the basics. Now let’s make a "Bowl of Red"!
. . . Emil T. Miller
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of this article: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ And now..... A T E X A S B O W L O F R E D(Tony's "Fast Favorite" Chili recipe) If there is an outstanding, top-notch chili that satisfies most everyone's little chili whims and hang-ups, a chili that is truly what most Southwesterners consider an authentic Texas "Bowl of Red", this is it. Here it is not an act of congress to make chili because this can be fairly quickly made on impulse and is consistently as great tasting as nearly anything struggled over for hours and hours. Sometimes your mood on a cold winters' day is to take all day making chili. Other times you want it quick and you want it NOW, and this is it. But for sure, don't stop trying new chili recipes until you've tried THIS ONE!
INGREDIENTS: 20 small dried Cayenne Chili Peppers or 2 tblspns crushed Red Pepper 2 dried Ancho Peppers or 2 tblspns of Chili Powder 3/4 lb Beef Round Steak (or other not-so-chioce cuts) cut into ½-inch cubes 3/4 lb boneless Pork or Venison cut into ½-inch cubes A handful of beef or venison tallow (or 2 tblspns Cooking Oil) 1 cup chopped Onion 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 1/2 tblspns whole Comino seed [or 1 tblspn gnd Cumin(Comino)] 1 tsp Paprika 1/2 tsp ground Black Pepper, Salt and Cayenne Pepper to taste 1 - 14 ½ oz can Beef Broth 1 - 12 oz can Beer (your choice, naturally) 3 cups cooked pinto beans and/or cooked Rice Sliced Jalapeno Peppers & grated cheese for garnish (optional) DIRECTIONS: Crush hot chili peppers, if using. Remove stems and seeds from the Ancho peppers, if using, and cut into 1-inch pieces. Put hot peppers and Ancho peppers into a blender container or food processor bowl. Cover and blend or process until ground. (If using crushed red pepper and chili powder, stir them together). Set pepper mixture aside. In a large saucepan or Dutch oven mix the beef, pork (or venison) and tallow. Cook half in hot oil until brown. Remove and set aside. Add to remaining meat, the onion, garlic, cumin, paprika, ground black pepper and ground chili pepper mixture (or the crushed red pepper and chili powder mixture, if using). Cook until the meat is brown. Now return all the meat to the saucepan. Stir in the beef broth and bring to a boil then reduce the heat and simmer covered for 45 minutes. Uncover and simmer about 30 minutes more or until the meat is tender and the sauce is the desired consistency, stirring occasionally. In separate pan simmer the beer until alcohol evaporates, stir this and the beans into the chili, simmer a bit more, adjust the seasonings, and serve (Cajuns serve over rice). Garnish with sliced jalapeno peppers, more onion, grated cheese, and slice of lemon if desired. Makes 6 servings. NOTE: This chili is mighty tasty made just like this. However, the great fun of Chili concocting is to experiment and arrive at the dish that suits YOU best! This is one dish where even failures are usually tasty anyway. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"I wish I had time for
just one more bowl of chili." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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